Mike Broatch posted this 02 January 2017

Has anyone found a crafty way to stop the inhaul fraying where it passes through the cringle

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Guy Mayger posted this 03 January 2017

Hi Mike, I use 4mm dynemma for my inhaul which seems to wear, or rather, not wear quite well. Not what it's designed for, but runs ok through the cringle. My new ship came with some 3mm Excel which lasted half a dozen races only. Interested to hear if others have managed to fit a block to the tack eye to help smooth things out, but there is very limited space and as you pull it on you lose mechanical advantage as the tack gets closer to the mast. Also, take a look at your block tied/lashed to the mast and make sure the angles aren't causing the line to wear on the cheeks as that maybe the issue as much as the cringle. Often think there must be a better way to run this system! Cheers, Guy 5-69-1

PS. carry a spare 1m length of line in your halyard bag/buoyancy aid just in case :-)

stewart eaton posted this 28 May 2017

I have just bought a nice P&B sail from Chris Brown, and I am new to the concept of an inhaul-though I see what you're getting at. Could someone post how to fit an inhaul that works well? Is the idea you pull the outhaul to max and then flatten by pulling the tack inwards?

Stewart S4398

David Greening posted this 29 May 2017

Look up the HD or North tuning guides, which will give you an idea of the optimal settings. The best thing with the inhaul is that you can pre-set the outhaul, and simply let the inhaul completely off at the windward mark, and if you are late pulling it back on at the leeward mark it is not a complete disaster. It is worth calibrating to at least a standard position, so that you can set it right before rounding the leeward mark.

Will Loy posted this 29 May 2017

Superspar have inserted two sheaves into the mast, one just above the gooseneck and one at the heel so there is no need for all the gubbins the conventional rigs use. I will stick a few pics on the gallery page. Also, Superspars can set the sheave inside the track so it is not as visible, mine was a last minute add on. It works great but the sheave by the gooseneck could be set slightly lower. The mast is sleeved so no problem with weakness either.

Last Edited 29 May 2017

Barrie Woodhall posted this 29 May 2017

I have 2 sails with differing cringle height so I cannot see the Superspar method working for both sails. I have to slide the block up or down the mast to suit whichever sail I,m using, otherwise I am in danger of turning the inhaul into another downhaul.

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